Beautiful beaches, sudden mountains, rumbling music and lots of Havianas! Rio is all that. I was recently over there to attend the third forum of the United Nations Alliance of Civilizations (UNAOC). More on the forum later, but for now Rio.

Sights of Rio

We were located on Copacabana beach area, and our hotel the “Copacabana Sol” on Rua Santa Clara was just blocks away from the beach. The hotel was old but comfortable and the staff was helpful. But the wireless was horribly sporadic and if you are one of those who rely on hotel toiletries, you will be disappointed. The “Copa Sol” just provided us with soap. But the showers were powerful with plenty of hot water, so that made up.

The city is absolutely stunning to look at. There is something riveting about the combination of geographical elements one gets to see in Rio. The circular beaches lined with coconut trees, with steep green hills in the background. Even though it is was “winter” in Rio (May) the weather was mild and not cold at all. Some of the must see sights in Rio is the Statue of Christ the Redeemer (but beware overcharging) and on the insistence of a number of cab drivers, the mountain peak with the cable car, Sugar Loaf. The Sa’ara Market is an old market which was overflowing with objects green and yellow. (Maybe because the FIFA worldcup is just around the corner, and Brazilians take their football passionately). Also I spied a number of good bargains to take back home as presents.

Sa'ara Market

Over at ipanema beach, was a “Devassa” (a locally brewed beer) restaurant which offered an excellent place for us to gather. And then to get a real taste of Rio, live samba music and performances at Lapa is a must. And lastly, if you happen to be in Rio on Sunday, there is a Sunday market full of local wares at ipanema beach. We took the subway and got off at the ipanema stop, which is right by the market.

Getting a temporary cell phone in Rio was a nightmare, I do not recommend it to anyone especially if you don’t know any Brazilians. The sim card requires activation through some national finance number, which foreigners do not have and you wont be able to register the sim card and get the phone to work. At the end of the day, I figured skype would be the best way to go, that is if the wireless works. (There is wireless at the beach as well!)

The best and safest way around Rio was taxi. The city also has a good subway system, but if you don’t know your way around, I would not recommend it since I did hear of muggings and robberies at gun point. So stay in groups and closer to the touristy spots. And learn some Portuguese otherwise it is very difficult to communicate with people on the streets. Thank you is Obrigado (if you are a man) and Obrigada (if you are a woman). The rest is up to you.

But to all the Brazilians who hosted us, and took good care, Obrigada! You were great!

An editorial in Dawn’s OP-ED pages recently rightly pointed out the lack of leadership in the country. Pakistan’s army is engaged officially in Waziristan and unofficially all across the country. We are reminded, Pakistan is at War. But where are the leaders, and where are their assurances to the people of Pakistan. Do the citizens not deserve to be informed what the plan is, assured that they will be protected and given the hope that all will turn out well? For that you need a campaign to give them hope and get their support. But as Cyril Almeida pointed out, that effort is lacking. No word from the PM, no appearance by the President.

And if you think that is bad, there is something worse. Driving through certain parts of Karachi known for its political affiliations, I saw “others” stepping into this vacuum of despair. With blaring speakers pointing the “right” way, stalls dot the roads telling people what to think while giving them the satisfaction of feeling they have made a choice. These stalls have the space and the freedom to impose their way of thinking, their version of the story, their sense of what is right and what is absolutely unacceptably wrong. This is something the government should be wary of, as we all know that this war is a war of the minds. The war against the brainwashed suicide bomber, the potential terrorist, and those who create them.

As Pakistan struggles to win against this unconventional war, the state of mind of the people of Pakistan cannot be ignored.

Many years ago, unaware of real life yet believing in the depth of truth and principle, I jotted some thoughts on paper. Well, on the computer. In my own way I tried to make them represent my principles, my devotion and my patriotism for Pakistan. But if I were to read them now, I would find the words cute, perhaps endearing, but nothing exceptional. 

Yet there was someone who gave it more than a passing thought. Someone who was a distant figure who wrote about press freedom in Pakistan, and was the only book available in the library to complete a report I had planned. He took time out to notice a teeny tiny article hidden somewhere in the folds of the paper. Not only to read, nod, and smile at, but also to call the newspaper and ask to speak to the young girl who had written the idealistic lines. It was a moment remembered many moments later, to make many other moments special. He felt good to know such thoughts existed in the new generation. I confirmed with him whether it was ok to be idealistic because people called me and my friends mad for thinking this way. He said, its the mad mad mad people of this world who are keeping it going. And that was good. That defined ‘encouragement’ to me. I remember it still. I will appreciate it forever.

Many years later,  I came across Mr Niazi’s son, unexpectedly realizing his connection. I shared the moment with him. It was like passing on the feeling, the thanks, the idealism. He didnt say anything, but I know he received the knowledge. The next day he gave me  ”Fettered Freedom” by Zamir Niazi, silently. And when I last night picked up the book, I realized how the tradition of care and the spirit of encouragement had been firmly preserved.

By writing tonight perhaps I once again pass it on…

What is about some films that they leave an eternity of sadness in their wake. Like lasting shadows, lingering after the flash of light is gone, unreal and untouchable. Its somewhat that feeling which remained with me after I saw this particular film. While you enjoy the highs, the lows, and the simple miraculousness of moments woven in the middle, you cannot help but turn away from the dull ache that lingers after the intensity is gone.

Inevitably, the intensity, the depth, stems from a heart to heart connection. A bond of love so strong that one cannot help but feels its presence and its pain throughout. An image from the movie stays with me, and its strange that this is the one to linger on, causing a startle at each recollection. Now I know the scene is not superior photographically, by acting or plot….yet it makes an impression on me. How do you understand love, it questions, when all parameters have been pushed upside down? Is there a definition, a simple idea? But it comes through, one way or the other. The love comes through, and leaves behind the futility of life…making it difficult to be understanding of life and its problems…simply making it difficult.